Drum
The drum is where most of the issues from the original design originated. Here are the changes made:
- Added pin between sleeve and motor mount piece: This should prevent these two pieces from rotating in unfortunate ways and shearing the wires.
- Added internal steel nut strip: If the teeth get ripped out, it won't trash the drum (as much). The nut strip also acts as a keyway for the piece attached to the output of the motor.
- Removed clamping piece for motor output and replaced with a plate bolted to the face of the motor: The primary motive for this was reducing weight, but it also leaves more space inside of the drum for other modifications.
- Moved idler bearing from drum to frame: Making those press fit pieces was a pain.
- Added retaining rings and washer to idler shaft: This constrains the bending of the frame by putting the drum in tension when the two main frame pieces are pushed apart. I believe this will help prevent Silent Spring-induced explosions.
- Switched to a shielded bearing for the motor side: The open bearing got filled with dirt and other crap, which made it very stiff. It is best to avoid having the bearing filled with dirt.
- Added a nub in the frame piece that matches the wire cutout in the motor mount sleeve: This constrains the rotation of the drum and prevents it from pulling its own wires out as in the Gemini match at FI.
- Switched to a continuous steel blade for a tooth: It is inset into the drum and should be much tougher. I may not bother with this if I don't have enough time to do the machining.
Washer added to the idler shaft |
Keyway nub to prevent rotation |
The internals of the drum |
Full render of everything |
Drive Base
Most of the changes to the drive base were aimed at weight reduction. Changes made:
- Switched to brushless motors: They are lighter and should be faster. I'm planning on using these: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-park300-brushless-outrunner-1380kv.html
- Back wheel is no longer direct drive: This improves the space situation and some reduction is probably necessary for the new motors.
- Front and back wheels are now different sizes: Improves packaging.
- Aluminum hex hubs are switched for nylon: Weight savings.
New wheel configuration |
Frame/ Armor
I made a lot of changes to the frame aimed at improving strength.
- Re-worked front plate mounting: Should be less prone to screws ripping out, etc.
- Extended belly pan forward: This will brace the frame further toward the front, helping to prevent the main plates from buckling.
- Switched from finger joints to pins to locate center plate: Fewer giant cutouts = less bad things.
- Moved belly pan holes: I moved holes to places that do not have as many holes, rather than just ignoring their existence. This should reduce the likelihood of catastrophic failures of the frame members.
- Reduced angle of side armor: I did not find myself needing it at all at FI and the weight savings are probably worthwhile.
- Removed middle armor support: The fewer holes the better and, again, I didn't really need the side armor.
- Switched to aluminum top plate: It should be stronger (and look better) and I think I have the weight.
The new system for the front corners |
What the inside looks like now (I didn't bother modeling the motors) |
Extended belly pan and holes strategically placed to avoid other holes |
Other Thoughts:
Hopefully I will be able to manufacture this over winter break. While there are changes that I probably will not get around to, I suspect this version will be much more competitive than the last. Some experimental things, like the brushless motors may end up not working, in which case I will switch them out for more known quantities.
For anyone interested, here is a (rough) bill of materials: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VzffXAeI5nw5pdMJEc_gqofo4VOdaDqT6vaQEu75xT0/edit?usp=sharing
Drivetrain Comments:
ReplyDeleteThose drive motors have a 3mm shaft, and the gearbox that you are using has a 2mm hole in the pinion. You could either make stepped shafts for those motors or go to different motors. I would go to the DYS 1806 2300kV motors connected to 20:1 gearboxes from ServoCity. The Kitbots gearboxes have easily destroyed pinions which are acceptable with the stock motors but are quickly destroyed once you go brushless.
Your setup would spin tires at 1.2A at 1042 rpm. The DYS at 20:1 would spin at 1.5A at 1277 rpm for 9 FPS with a 1.6" tire. Both of these speeds would be very controllable in your application.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/dys-be1806-2300kv-brushless-multirotor-motor-2s-3s.html
https://www.servocity.com/485-rpm-econ-gear-motor
Lite Flites would be lighter tires and can be superglued to your nylon hex hubs.
What is your belt routing? It looks like a single belt setup to me which would result in a low wrap angle unless you are doing something different from what I am thinking of. This two belt method is the more common way to do what you are doing. http://www.teamcosmos.com/solaris/v2/jackshaft.jpg from http://www.teamcosmos.com/solaris/v2/build.shtml
Also, replace the stock shaft in all outrunners that you are using in combat. 17-4 PH seems to be one of the best materials on McMaster for this purpose. https://www.mcmaster.com/#3180T31 https://www.mcmaster.com/#3180T34 https://www.mcmaster.com/#1174k33/=15khjs1
DeleteCurrently, the drive has the motors direct driving the output pulley, which is pressed onto the shaft. There will be an idler pulley mounted forwards and above the output pulley, which should result in around 180 degrees of belt wrap. The motor output pulleys are much smaller than the pulleys on the wheels, which should give a sizable reduction. If the reduction proves too low, I will switch to gearboxes.
DeleteThanks for the gearbox/ motor advice! I will probably order a set to test.